Originally uploaded by Bill Whateley.
This is our signature run to the Eddystone Light.
coasts and harbours
The Eddystone Lighthouse
On Friday, I sailed to the Eddystone Lighthouse. The Inshore Waters forecast reads:Lyme Regis to Lands End including the Isles of Scilly.
24 hour forecast:
Wind: west 4 or 5, backing southeast 3 or 4.
Weather: fair.
Visibility: good.Sea
State: moderate becoming slight. The Eddystone is west of south out of Plymouth, some 10 miles off Rame Head. The gps says it’s 24.2 nautical miles from Blue Mistress’ mooring to a point one mile eastward of the light and back.A steady south east wind means a close reach out and a broader reach home.It’s a great day to go, if you start early. I start late, dropping the mooring at 1220 on a falling tide. The clouds are beginning to clear.The wind is heading me up the Tamar, so, to make up some time, I motor into Plymouth Sound, passing across the ‘bridge’, the narrow passage that spans the shallows west of Drake Island. I set sail immediately, pleased to shut down the engine. It feels like cheating to motor the previous 2 miles. Second error, on the mooring, I rigged the working foresail. It seemed right at the time, but, now we are sailing, it is obviously too small and heavy for the wind. It takes Blue Mistress across the Sound and out to sea but too slowly. I will have a good sail, but I won’t make the Eddystone and back by dark.I delay changing to the lighter jenny to watch Brittany Ferries’ Pont Aven to pass. There is no clue to whether it is heading for Roscoff or Santander.Third error, perhaps less of one, I am too close and she takes our wind – but not till she is at least a quarter mile passed us. We roll and flap for a while in the turbulence and she swings swiftly on her way – oblivious.
Fourth error, I have forgotten to rig the jack lines, which I only remember when I am in the bow changing headsails. The swell is not particularly uncomfortable, but there is always a point at which the voice on your shoulder reminds you – mine can be quite strident sometimes, like an overexcited parrot! But the jenny makes all the difference; we romp along at over 5 knots, into the sun, with the lighthouse visible on the horizon. Now it’s a question of will we be able to get there and back before dark? I set a time of 1530 to turn for home. 
Fifth error, or rather, a problem. I can’t get the autohelm to maintain a course, which is ridiculous because it’s always been fine before. Is it Murphy’s Law that says that if something can go wrong, it will? I drop all ideas of doing those useful “little jobs about the boat” and settle down to sail her myself. And what a fantastic afternoon’s sail – straight out to sea, a clear blue sky, a slight swell and enough wind to carry us along merrily. Her Majesty’s navy was on exercise when we left, but disappeared after an hour or so. There were a couple of other yachts heading for Plymouth and two or three fishing boats and that was all. Behind me, I could see far down the coast of Cornwall to the west and along the Devon coast to the east 
At 1540, the lighthouse bore due West, 1 mile, (how good timing was that?),and we turned for home, increasing our speed to an average of over 5.5 knots to be back in the Sound a half hour ahead of time.
We goose-winged gently up the Tamar on a dying wind as the sun set ahead of us over Cornwall and, having picked up the mooring and set the boat right, I rowed ashore in the gathering gloom.
I wrote this with the thought that I would just state the facts (that parrot again), but I cannot avoid the romance of it. I am sure it means little to anyone else, but I find it difficult to write this without a leap in my heart – on Friday, I sailed to the Eddystone Light.
On Steeple Point – Memory of the Sea 2
Aged twelve, on another beach, body surfing on the residue of some distant storm. A wave begins to swell and move swiftly towards the shore. I sense it will break just after it reaches me. As I feel the water begin to lift me, I launch myself. But, starting too soon and swimming too weakly for this particular wave, I feel myself tipped forward and dumped headlong into the water. A quick breath before submerging, I bounce on the sandy bottom only to be rolled over and over. Eyes wide open, I relax and see the frothy surface many feet above me and the sun shining through the water. I feel calm, enjoying the tremendous strength of the wave buffeting me. I know it will move on. Pushing to the surface, I gasp for breath and see its frothy peak speeding away to waste itself on the distant beach. I turn to find the next wave almost on me. A deep breath and a dive, dolphin-like, beneath it. Meeting its energy head on, my body is buffeted again, but this time I am in charge and it washes swiftly over me, leaving me to resurface and prepare to surf again. Have I mastered the sea in those years? No, only myself in this one situation. To the sea I will always be insignificant – just flotsam and jetsam. As years go by, I will learn different ways of relating to it, but the sea is the sea . . . is the sea . . . is the sea . . . is the sea . . .
On Steeple Point – Memory of the Sea 1
We had a great sail on Saturday – one leg being a long beam reach out to sea to a point well south of the Mewstone. The sea was a little lumpy and had taken on a deep greeny blue colour in the sunshine. For me, this was just perfect. My crew had different opinions as to the state of the sea and I started wondering why I liked it so much – where did it come from? A couple of early memories came to mind and I hope to recall a few more over time.
Memory of the Sea 1Aged 2, on the beach. A lone rock stands out in the sand, a pool has formed around it. It seemed deep to me then.
Feeling wet sand between my toes, I stand on the water’s edge, watching ripples on the surface reflected on the sand below. They drift across the water in wavy lines, dissolving into the rock beyond. Shiny seaweed, with the bubbles of sticky liquid that burst over your fingers when pressed, wave back in the clear seawater. I am entranced. The sun shines hot on my back and all is childly contentment. All at once, I am tumbling in the pool, mouth wide open sucking in water, eyes smarting with water and salt. I cry out only to take in more water. A stray wave, for that is what it is, bounces me onto the sand and rolls me over and over. I see sand, then frothy white bubbles, then blue sky as I hit the surface and then the bottom as I am sucked down again. The rock comes towards me. I flail legs and arms, and fail to find my feet. All is water. The helplessness is overwhelming. Suddenly, bright sunlight, nose running with seawater, mouth coughing, spluttering, dribbling, throat hurting, eyes stinging, Mum’s comforting arms around me, my chin on her shoulder – a brief moment of peace. Concerned faces appear behind her, relieved smiles, then laughter apparently at my misfortune. And the tears flow – not just with my own fear, but more with frustration, indignation, embarrassment and humiliation at the unfair laughter. Yes, it was all there – aged two, and remembered today, 56 years later . . . as if it happened this morning.

What’s Your Sport?
“What’s your sport?”
“Sorry?”
“What your sport. Mine’s golf, what’s yours?”
“Well, I like to sail. I’ve got a boat.”
“Like to race around the buoys do you. That’s too much water for me.”
And off he went, leaving me thinking, “Sport? Why not Leisure activity? Or that awful phrase ‘lifestyle choice’? Do we have to categorise everything these days?”
But he has got me wondering why I sail – or, more precisely, why have I come back to sailing?
For a start, ‘sport’ seems to be the wrong word. I do have a competitive streak but that’s not it. Sailing for me is less about Formula One racing and more about mountaineering, less about competitiveness and more about self-reliance.
Sailing has been described as an act of constant motion in a confined space in the presence of a vast quantity of water. In that confined space, a range of knowledge, skills and attitudes have to be concentrated into a fluid mix of activities.
To go to sea is to trust in your own ability to master those activities, and, whether you like it or not, to continually test that trust.
As things stand for me at the moment, I know some of those activities well and am reasonably good at them, some I am coming back to after thirty years and am enjoying relearning and some I am plain ignorant about and discovering the hard way.
In the past few months, have I been anxious, irritated, disappointed, embarrassed, fearful and angry – shocked even? Yes, briefly all of those, but I expect these to be part of a right of passage. There is something more – the passage is to a deeper understanding that will surprise you or me one sunny day, when the sea sparkles and the wind freshens on your cheek. You will listen to the swish of the wake increasing astern, watch the sails curving above and feel the pull on the tiller as the boat heels gently and the bow rises to the swell of the sea. It won’t happen often, but it will lift the heart and satisfy the soul, because you will know for sure that, today at least, you have earned the right to be right here, right now.
And, in the meantime, everything is part way to achieving that. So we learn about, and enjoy, the sea, and the weather, and weather forecasts, and navigation, and navigation aids like logs and depth sounders and gps and chartplotters, and sails, and ropes, and rigging, and safety, and moorings, and marinas, and engines, and design, and electronics, and radios, and materials like wood and grp and paint and antifouling and glues, and repairs and renewals, and chandleries, and boatyards, and people and crew and leadership and management and preparation, and on and on.
Is that a romantic vision? Of course it is. Does it fit in with the attitudes of some of the characters I have met who sail also? For some, definitely not – on the surface at least! But it is there in others.
I am sure there are many other sports, leisure activities, lifestyle choices that offer similar journeys.
That’s fine, but I choose to sail.

