Resolved

Continued from Day 4 . . .

It is 1966, I am 18 years old. Yesterday I crossed the Atlantic and landed in New York. Today I lost my address book . . .

Bit of a problem, I know no one in New York and I’m struggling to think whether I know anyone anywhere near here. It’s a difficult moment.

Then, after an agonising age, I do remember the name of someone – in Point Pleasant, New Jersey. I look at my map. This doesn’t seem too far away. So I ask my way to the bus station and, after a long anxious walk with the humidity rising and the suitcase getting heavier, eventually find a telephone kiosk, determined to tackle the stack of giant telephone books. I search the New Jersey book, looking for an entry in Point Pleasant. There are several entries under the same name – of course, there are, I should have guessed. Should I ring each one now or go to Point Pleasant and try my luck there? Either way, I need to get out of New York, because I’ve nowhere to go here and I don’t want to spend money on another hotel when I am unfamiliar with . . . well, everything here really. But I do still have my Greyhound bus ticket, valid for 99 days. There will be no problem getting on the bus. So let’s go now.

The address book had been my safety net. I have spent six months putting names and places together, each address another waypoint in the ninety nine day journey. One or two were family ones I had to visit but most were added because either I might be in the vicinity, or I might decide go in that direction rather than another, or, let’s face it, I might be in trouble and need someone.

I laugh about it now. Now I would have all those addresses on my mobile phone and on my iPad, and, in the unlikely event I lost them both, the back-up would be on the Cloud and I could access them in an internet cafe. Besides that, I would probably have a printout tucked in my socks; and failing all that my mum would be on Skype to list them out again. Before I arrived, I would have looked up each address on Google Earth and Google Maps – oh, and emailed profusely. But, do you know what, I had none of these, just a small book which I lost immediately. How lucky was that?

I am sitting in a window seat on a Greyhound bus. The seat is a blue, synthetic material, quite comfortable, moulded by backs mostly bigger than mine. There’s a cloth head rest. The seat next to me is empty and there is a piece of gum stuck on the back of the seat in front. The driver climbs on board, looks back at his dozen or so passengers, takes his cap off and swings the door shut. It closes with a satisfying hiss. The corner of the window is greasy but the view is leaving-a-bus-station fascinating. I don’t care about the vehicle, I’m travelling at last.

I still plan to see North America. Now that I have got over the shock, I realise that, without the address book, I am free to navigate wherever and whenever I want in the next three months. I don’t have a lot of money but I can sleep on the buses or in cheap hotels or with people I meet. In the next weeks, I will narrowly escape arrest in a Las Vegas casino, get asked to leave a bus in New Orleans because I am white, and find myself uncomfortable with the party scene on a beach near Vancouver. I will visit parts of the continent that the tourist boards won’t want me to see and I will be elevated by places, people and events in ways that I can’t yet imagine.

In 1966, three years after John Kennedy was shot, two years before Martin Luther King will suffer the same fate, four years before Woodstock, this is a remarkable continent. For the rest of my life, my view of the US, Canada and their relationship with the rest of the world, all their ups and downs, will be coloured by this trip. For now, all that is ahead of me. I sit back, relax and enjoy the journey.

And one part of the emergency plan has already been tested: if caught out, move on.

To be continued . . .

 

Plastic everywhere

“This is what we found in the stomach of a chick.”

I vaguely heard the words but I was looking out of the window. The ground sloped steeply in front of us, the sea glittered in the morning sun. A ship had just passed heading who knows where. Small fleets of clouds from the Southern Ocean drifted across the sky. We had climbed from the visitor centre to the lookout to view the colony of Royal Albatross. The place was Taiaroa Head near Dunedin, New Zealand, the time: eight weeks ago.

I am not a bird person. Don’t get me wrong, I am happy when they come near me and I can even identify some of them, but I don’t normally arm myself with telescope, binoculars and sandwiches and go looking for them. But these were different. These were Royal Albatross, the largest and the most graceful of birds, birds that fly thousands of miles without touching land. These were the birds that had reached mythical status, the subject of mariner’s tales. I had seen my first one two days before. It floated along effortlessly, its shadow rising and falling with the swell, its wing tips within a fraction of brushing the water. I was elated.

Now we were looking at albatross chicks. I could see two, no three large white bundles sitting in the grass. One had its head up – small head, large beak; it was peering around in an awkward, juvenile fashion. The other two looked heads-down bored. Apparently there were more around the corner. An adult drifted overhead.  I wanted to see how big it was but there was nothing to judge it against. I was slightly disappointed.

There were murmurings behind me and I turned to find an outstretched hand holding a plastic food box full of plastic. All at once I clearly heard the words from a moment or so earlier.

I counted: one piece of foam, two short pieces of soft plastic tubing, four plastic bottles tops, at least twenty pieces of unidentifiable plastic – some as large as a bottle top, . . . one tooth brush (one what?)!

The warden talked of adult albatrosses picking small pieces of plastic out of the sea because they float on the surface just like their normal food. The parent brings them to the nest and feeds them to the offspring which sits there with its large mouth wide open, dying for food – (literally in this case). We can guess that most adult albatrosses and by implication baby albatrosses have one or more pieces of plastic lodged in their stomachs. This chick was unlucky to have a parent who was particularly adept at finding it.

I glanced out of the window at the bundles in the grass – now in my mind tainted by human hand. I was shocked.

Last Wednesday on my boat, I was trying to stow an awkward container into an equally awkward locker. It would fit if I trimmed some of the plastic edging, so I picked up a sharp knife and cut little strips away – and it did fit. I was pleased and congratulated myself on solving the problem. I was now sitting on deck with a pile of small plastic chippings. Let’s be frank, of course there was a huge temptation to drop them overboard into the current. They would have disappeared instantly. It would have been the work of a moment and I would have thought no more of it – just like millions of us around the world.

Unfortunately, the millions of us around the world have been too thoughtless for too long. The albatrosses, the seals, the sharks stuffed with plastic are just one part of a wider problem we must solve as quickly as possible. No sentiment, no wailing and gnashing of teeth, just an intelligent focus on a very complicated problem. If you haven’t started yet, start now.

. . . A toothbrush??? . . .

 

 

Twelve years old

At 12 years old I had my own room. It had been my granddad’s study at the front of the house on the first floor; bigger than any room I had slept in before. The house faced onto the main shopping street and I could watch the people and the traffic. At closing time, around 11 o’clock every evening, I would lie in bed and hear the pub-goers wondering home – some more sociable than others, most of them noisy. The street lamp lit up the thin curtains. I liked the patterns the light and the curtains made on the wall.

The place is Bude, North Cornwall, the date is 1960. We had moved here three years earlier from a bungalow a few miles up the coast (close to Steeple Point!). The house was a three-storey Victorian terraced house, it was built half way up a hill. We would have been able to see the sea but they put a very large hotel on the land across the road. The house attached to us up the hill had been converted into a haberdashery, their small garden was now part of the shop. The house down the hill was an accountants’.

We lived upstairs on the top two floors because downstairs was my dad’s dental suite – surgery, waiting-room, admin office. This meant he could hear we children banging on the floors of the rooms upstairs – in the drawing room and, you’ve guessed it, my bedroom. Day-time was tip-toe time.

This was a Victorian house, therefore the main rooms were tall and large, the space ample. Perhaps not entirely – the bathroom was small, the bath smaller, and, as for the kitchen . . . At this stage, there were my parents, we four children and our uncle who had been living there with his parents (our grandparents) before they passed away. A few years later, the uncle got married and moved out and we four children became five with the birth of another sister.

There was no back garden to the house but a narrow backyard, one side of which was a series of sheds where we kept our bikes and the coal and logs and a lot of stuff nobody wanted but never got round to throwing away. On the other side of the yard was the garage. This opened onto the road behind the house and we would use the garage doors as goal posts. On top of the garage was the dental laboratory. In the laboratory worked two dental technicians who were never happy about us kicking a ball at the garage doors below them.

From my bedroom, I could go next door to what was grandly known as the drawing room with its open fire and tall bay windows facing the street and the hotel. Diagonally over the landing was my parents’ bedroom. Stairs immediately on the left led to three bedrooms upstairs and a loft in the roof above that. Straight out of my room, across the landing, a short flight of stairs led down, turning sharp left down again to the ground floor. If you didn’t turn sharp left, you went straight on past the bathroom into the dining room and then via a small landing to the kitchen. There was a bedroom above the dining room and another above the kitchen. The steep back stairs (up and down) led off the small landing. Downstairs at the back were two scullery rooms, one used for ironing, the other for washing. Their floors were made of Delabole slate, much sought after now but merely common and practical then.

Upstairs there were several creaking floor boards which the younger ones learnt to walk along – (well, they did tip-toe on them), and satisfying dark wood banisters up the front stairs. The stairs down had been walled off – tip toe time again! The ground floors were tiled in patterns much admired by all who saw them. The waiting room was extravagantly furnished with a large snooker table holding journals and magazines, with, arranged around it, old fashioned, black-lacquered high-backed chairs that would have looked good in a hunting-themed pub. I don’t know what his patients thought but we had lots of happy family parties in that waiting room when they weren’t there.

My mother didn’t like the house. Firstly, she had always lived with a garden and there was nowhere she could plant plants or sit outside; secondly, there was nowhere to hang washing properly; thirdly we lived ‘above the shop’ and my father would come up for a coffee at various intervals during the day, which was fine sometimes but not always; and fourthly, the choice had been taken away from her – we lived there for practical reasons. Yes, it was a house with no less than seven bedrooms – (or seven by the time they had converted other rooms) and where can you find a house like that? But it was my father’s father’s house, she wasn’t fond of him and found herself constantly reminded of him. Nevertheless, she made it a great home and we loved her for it. As children, this was where we lived, we didn’t know any different.

 

Dear Gin

Dear Gin

I am writing to you because I recognise you as being on the edge of my life for the whole of my life.

I always liked the bottles you came in – your Gordon’s version a comforting deep green, your Plymouth version with the ship in full sail on the label, (don’t I remember an anchor too? Maybe not). When I was born, you sat in the cabinet in the bungalow. When I first started to walk your bottles were about eye level, tantalisingly close but locked out of reach.

It’s your smell that I remember most. When I drink you now, it brings up memories of my parents. Partying or not partying, they drank you. Mum would have a gin and tonic, Dad would have a pink gin, a drink he had grown to like in the navy during the war. The Angostura bitters have a special place in my memory too. But they drank you in greater quantity than we would consider now – whether to forget or to remember or to enjoy, I never knew.

As a child, being kissed goodnight by someone who has had a couple or more of gins was always a hit or miss affair – not unpleasant, just hit or miss.

When I stopped being a child – (I never entirely stopped to be honest), you were still around. I remember one incident at university . . . no, perhaps I won’t go into that. You have never been my preferred drink, just a special one.

Now I read that you are becoming fashionable again. There are new gins, in fancy bottles, with distinct tastes. And new tonics to try with them – the same Angostura I hope. Be(a)ware of fashion. Fashion is good, but the undertow speaks of competition, economies and corporate survival. One day you are there and on top, the next you are sinking and having to try harder. You tinker with the details. From the outside comes admonition from the pinch-lipped. “So much is enough”, “this is excess” and regulation distract you. And you lose your original reason for being.

This is not about excess. This is about special moments. All I ask is to sit with with one or two friends and you in your fine glass, early in the evening, perhaps outdoors as the sun sets, and to taste one of the defining tastes of my lifetime.

Thank you for the pleasure you have given me over the years.

Sincerely

Bill

 

Three viewpoints

 

A man and a woman walk through the park together, holding hands. They pass an old woman sitting on a bench. The old woman is knitting a small, red sweater. The man begins to cry. Write this scene.

~~~

Just one more time they said. We know you retired ten years ago but this is important they said. The man is still free and you are the only person who saw him they said. Well, they were right about that. I did get a close look but he disappeared and hasn’t been seen since. It was twenty years ago. I was old then, I’m a lot older now. My eyes aren’t so good. I can’t remember things like I used to. I don’t know if I would recognise him again. Nasty man, nasty murder, though, they said. We think it might be him but we need some help. We were watching this man for another reason then we saw the scar on his neck. It might match but we can’t arrest someone for having a scar. There’s been a young woman with him this past week. So, if it is him . . . Please try they said. I liked the ‘please’ so here I am.

Of all the park benches, they picked the most uncomfortable one. Can’t they see I’m bonier now? A cushion would have been kind. And it’s such a quiet part of the park. Would an old woman come and sit here by herself? I would go where I could see people. Love watching people me. That’s why I joined the force. I liked people and didn’t like the trouble they got into. I was good too. They all said so – even though I was a woman. What do they call that now – sexist, isn’t it? Then it just happened. Nobody to complain to, just had to work round it and made darn sure I was better than everyone else. And I was. But now . . . well, it was a long time ago . . . And here I am, sitting on a park bench, knitting!

Here comes the couple now, just as they said they would. The man’s on my side. He’s talking to her quite loudly – deep voice – yes. Now, let me see. Not too obvious a stare but . . . I can only see him from the side . . . I think I do recognise him. He’s almost bald now . . But head held forward, those thin lips, that big ear, the straight nose. Tall, thin, big feet and smart shoes . . And I do remember he always wore smart shoes. Can’t see the scar but that was on the other side. Deep voice. Yes, I’m pretty sure it’s him. Now what did they say? Put you knitting in the basket, stand up and walk away to your left. He is very clever and might be dangerous. We don’t want you hurt . . . Well, amen to that!

~~~

Just once more then I will stop. It’s been a good run but the other day I thought I might be being watched. I should disappear again right now. I know I should. But there is something about this young woman . . .

That first time was an accident. It was twenty years ago and that policewoman almost caught me. She had a good look anyway. That was before I decided to disappear. Then I thought I’d do it again – properly – all over Europe – the money, the women – so easy to come by. Now I am older – a bit slower but still capable. Do I want to prove it just one more time? The opportunity is here.

Funny thing . . . I’m more emotional now. What is that? I never used to care. Straight forward, that was me – do it, disappear, no sweat. That’s why I got away with it. But Joan here, I really like her. Maybe I am getting old, maybe I do want to settle down. Must be quick then.

“This is a beautiful park. I’m surprised you haven’t been here before.” Did I just say that? Do I care whether she’s been here or not? Yes, I do. Would I like to come here again with her? Yes, I would. But that means . . . I’ve never felt like this before – well, isn’t that a cliche! . . . Is it true?

“Would you like a coffee over there?” What? . . . This is all wrong.

There is an old woman on that bench. She looks vaguely familiar. My God, surely it’s not that policewoman from all those years ago. Go away. I’m not like that any more. Go away, I’m becoming a different person. Go away. I might be falling in love.

~~~

Just my luck to pick another man who can’t control his emotions. I actually like men who express their emotions, but not here, not now. What is he crying about anyway? Up to now, he’s been fine. . . Different, of course, but I’ve always enjoyed men who are different. But what I really want is to be with someone who listens to me. Usually they’re busy talking about themselves.

This one’s not bad. He doesn’t talk about himself much. A bit rough sometimes. I can handle that. A bit distant, as if he’s somewhere else entirely at times. He’s sort of vulnerable – like he was somebody else before and is trying to be someone different now. Oh, that doesn’t sound like I meant it. But I do like him . . . sort of.

He says, “Would you like a coffee over there?”

I say, “Oh, that would be nice.” Yes, it would be nice to sit and talk and enjoy the sunshine.

I am holding his hand. It’s a big, strong hand. Like it’s done a lot of work.

He’s staring back at that nice old woman. Good colour –  red. Oh, she’s put it away and is walking off. He’s looking back at her – and he’s still crying.

Gosh, where did all these policeman come from . . .?

 

A taste of happiness

Early one summer morning, we went shark-fishing.

That’s not quite right . . . my dad went shark-fishing on a friend’s boat and I was taken along.

The friend’s boat, Sanu, was large, 62 feet large – a very solid wooden boat – a wartime-built tender for the Admiralty.

This was 1960. I was twelve years old. I had no idea what I had let myself in for.

There were several men and women on board. I was being allowed into the world of adults and I felt pretty good. This was a world where to be grown-up was to drink alcohol and to smoke cigarettes and to tell jokes that I didn’t really understand and where people used swear words when they thought I wasn’t listening. I liked my dad’s friends. They dressed casually, laughed a lot, were easy to be with. They were certainly different from my teachers and the other parents from school.

The fishing-ground was out of sight of land and took a while to reach. All was well till we got there. However, there are one or two things to remember about shark-fishing. Firstly, when the engine stops, the boat starts to go up . . and down . and up . . . and down in an unending, uneven rhythm. Somewhat disconcerting. Then there are buckets of rotting fish called rubby-dubby that are poured into the sea to attract the sharks. They have a disconcertingly distinctive smell about them. None of this is conducive with inexperience and a full breakfast.

Very, very quickly I started to feel clammy, my eyes failed to focus, my head spun. It must have shown because the next thing I remember, my head is being directed over the rail and my breakfast has been presented to the sharks. I must have been taken below to a small cabin smelling of paint (yes, really), a bunk with a large bucket on the floor. There were several times during that day when the bucket became a gaping hole that I would willingly have disappeared down. The sweat, the tears, the smell, the motion, the nausea. Death would have been a relief. I had nothing left inside to give the world. It went on and on.

At various times during the day, there was unappreciated sympathy – female only, and the occasional offer of a hot drink – “no thanks”. But for most of the next six hours I suffered alone, incapable and humiliated.

Late in the afternoon, I heard the engines start. The motion changed and we turned for home. The boat throbbed comfortingly. Dad came down to the cabin to see how I was. He got me to come on deck into the fresh air. I put on someone’s woollen sweater, several sizes too large, and a large oil-skin jacket which reached to my knees.

We sat together, him and I, behind the wheel house, out of the wind. We watched the evening sun catch fire to the waves and the seagulls wheeling and crying as they followed the fishing boat hoping for an easy meal. He told me about the fishing and the catch and there was no fuss – not once did he berate me for being ill. I loved him for that. I accepted the offer of hot soup – “It’ll do you good.” We both had a mug – mushroom soup and crusty bread. Looking back now, I don’t know what my dad and the others thought of me during the time I was below. They left me to get on with it and then talked to me as though nothing had happened. In my turn I have got older and passed through the age they were then. I became an adult in a different period of political correctness but an adult nevertheless. I would have treated me the same. I recognise the rite of passage they allowed me and thank them for it.

And the soup? Never, ever has anything tasted so good. It wasn’t the sea sickness I remember, it is the post sea-sickness – the happiness I found in spending that time with my dad.

~~~

As a post script, the last I heard of Sanu was a couple of years ago. She was high and dry on a beach in North Cornwall. The current owner was unlocatable and she was being sold off by the owners of the beach – the National Trust. This was the first time I learnt a little about her history. Now I hear she has been broken up. She was a special boat for a number of reasons, one of which was very personal to me. The story of Sanu’s demise can be read here, here, here and here.

 

An adverb-free walk? – an attempt

When we started our walk the vegetation was low salt marsh, a magic mat of pastel colours. Now we are on the edge of sand dunes covered in marram grass. The dunes hold back the wind. It is peaceful here. The estuary sand exposed by the tide is firm under our feet but the storms of the last few days have carved into it. Concentric lines of low cliffs cross our path. At one point, where the outgoing tide has swept into a small bay, we have to jump. A section of sand cliff follows us.

The sea lions we have come to see are in front of us – a safe distance, we hope. The dominant male has lifted his bulk out of the water. The sun strikes his back and gleams across to us. He is looking our way. We feel his stare. There is no doubt who is in charge here.

Behind him his extended family twist and turn in the channel. They play – and it is play, an endless game of tag. Bodies break the surface – a flipper here, a head there, a sleek black back. One teenage star almost leaps clear. The older females swim leisurely by. Others lie on the beach. They feign sleep but are awake enough to flick sand over themselves.

As we stroll past, four heads appear at the water’s edge. We can’t tell whether they want to play or to make sure we leave. Whatever . . . they have a reputation, we keep going.

We round the point onto the beach and the weather takes charge.

The wind strikes our faces. It sucks the breath from our mouths, our noses. Surprised, we stagger under the impact and lean into it. Hats are pulled down over ears. Collars are turned up and coats zipped, hands plunged deep into pockets.

The wool muffles the noise of the surf, but it’s still the surf that grabs our attention. The sea is in chaos. Foam and spume and spray lift into the air at each gust of wind. The spray seeks out what little flesh is exposed. Gulls whirl and swoop, their cries torn away. Little pied stilts, their long thin legs impervious to the wind, totter along the waterline. The only solid object is the remnant of a wreck. It stands fast while all around is confusion.

We know the expelled male sea lions are here somewhere. Each keen to be first to spot the next one, we peer along the beach. A spray-filled haze hides the far end but nearer we find that the wreck is not the only immovable object it seems. A great lump of fat lies in the sand. Longer than either of us, heavier than both of us, it . . . well, it just lies there. From downwind we creep closer. We can smell him – a pungent animal smell from the sea. We shuffle closer . . . and closer. The sand makes it difficult to tell his head from his tail flippers. Then we find out . . . he sits up, we leap back. Not interested, he settles down again. We breath. We act casual. We walk on. No fear . . .

 

Dialogue

“I mean it. I’ve never written dialogue before.”

“So what are you going to do?”

“I don’t know. I’ll think of something.”

 

Late morning in the city, two older men sitting in a pub waiting for their wives who have slipped away to shop for clothes. The pub is old, the furniture a traditional dark varnish, there are two partly finished pints of beer on the table – one is more finished than the other.

“What time is it?”

“Twelve fifteen. What happened to your watch?”

“I don’t wear one any more. There’s a clock on the mobile and it’s more accurate than my watch was.”

“That sounds very modern.”

“Well, the kids don’t seem to use them any more so I thought I’d try it.”

“Fine – if you don’t forget your mobile.”

“Yeah . . .”

 

“I remember my first watch. I was proud and disappointed at the same time.”

“Why disappointed?”

“It was a right-handed watch.”

“What . . .?”

“Most left-handed people wear their watches on their right wrist. The trouble is the winder then points up your arm not towards your hand. Winding it on your wrist means working backwards.”

“Show me . . . Oh, I see . . .

 

“Being left-handed was a problem for you, was it?”

“No . . . Well, sometimes. It meant having to think things through twice . . . The first time when you were shown how to do something, usually by someone right-handed, and the second time how to do it the other way round.”

“That was a problem at school, huh?”

“You bet. The teachers thought I was slow and the other kids knew I was different. One teacher insisted I held my spoon in my right hand at meal times. It was torture trying to do it. I was very left-handed then.”

“Good for playing cricket though – left-handed bowler and all that.”

“Yes, but by the time I really wanted to play sport I had got very mixed up between being left-handed and trying to cope with a right-handed world. I listened to that teacher too much. It took many years before I got my confidence back.”

“Being right-handed myself. I’ve never thought about it.”

“Yeah, well . . . It was only five years ago I discovered there was such thing as a left-handed ruler.”

“How does that work?”

“Well, on a twelve inch ruler, the numbers start from the right hand side for a left-handed person. So when you want to measure, say, two inches, you automatically ‘drag’ the pencil from the right 1 . . 2. With an ordinary ruler, you would subtract the numbers 12 . . 11 and so on. I thought that’s how it was always done until someone showed me a better way. I was good at subtraction!”

 

“I suppose if there were touch screens when you were young it would have made a big difference.”

“Yes. I can arrange apps etc wherever I want them now. I suspect the querty keyboard was designed by a right-handed person but I mastered that one easily enough. In fact, it’s like a lot of things, in the end you don’t notice the difference because this is the way you have always done it. The only real problem comes with a new practical activity where the person showing me holds whatever it is one way and I try and copy it. The image in front of me . . the way my hands are placed . . . never matches the demo and I have to start all over again.”

 

“You sent me that image from your iPad the other day . . . extraordinary when you remember the Apple lle and that amazing 125 kB memory!”

“Did you ever read that comic when you were young – ‘Swift’ I think it was called? It had a continuing story of Sammy and his Speedsub. He was my hero. He could do anything with this sub including talking to people anywhere. Seems we can do that ourselves now.”

“Mmm . . .”

“When Alice broke her ankle in Crete and she went into hospital, I was able to email the insurance people and the airline and organise our trip home using the iPad. We were five days late coming home . . . I was commuting between the hotel and the hospital. It was a tense time but I never felt cut off.”

“I remember seeing you when you got back. You were both pleased with the way they looked after you.”

“ . . . from the tourist boat and the slim, dark Frenchman with the well-trimmed beard – her long-time favourite male . . . to the taxi driver, the hotel staff, the medical staff. Language was a problem sometimes, but everyone was kind and helpful. People talk a lot of rubbish about running into trouble overseas. Sounds naive, I know, and of course there are odd places you have to be careful, but generally we all have the same problems in terms of health, comfort, function, appearance. Even if we don’t speak the same language, even if the culture is different, the basic emotions are there somewhere . . . Heck, this is getting heavy. Do you want another beer?”

“Do you know something, if it’s between solving the problems of the world and having another beer, I think I’ll go for the beer this morning and we can solve the other problems tomorrow.”

“Right . . . Oh here they come now . . . How did you get on?” . . .

>

Captain of his ship

It is his hands I notice first. They are small, the fingers delicately occupied.  In company shirtsleeves, he is sitting in his captain’s chair and he is working the joysticks of this tourist boat.

The chair is deeply upholstered in fawn leather and it holds him firmly and comfortably. Here is a man at home in his world.

I am standing in the doorway of the wheelhouse, curious to see how the boat is run. It is really a small ship – 56 passengers this trip.

The captain, for this is he, carefully maneuvers us past a set of all-too-solid rocks. I want to say ‘then he relaxes’ but I never see him when he isn’t relaxed. A wide oval face beneath a wind-blown shock of silvering hair turns towards me and grins broadly – a wide welcoming smile. “Come in, come in. Come out of the weather.” A heavy New Zealand accent.

He sits before two large screens showing gps and radar positions, plus digital readouts of the minute details of both engines. Irreverently I wonder whether he has digital readouts for every piece of equipment on the ship including the toaster in the galley. Here is a man who can handle the technology, a seaman who has dispensed with a ship’s wheel and runs this large, elegant machine with two joysticks and a mouse. Clever.

Clever, yes, but he needs to be more than clever, he needs to be master of this environment. Technology is not enough. We are in the very south west of the South Island of New Zealand. This stretch of water is where the great explorers of the 18th century – the English, the French, the Dutch, the Portuguese all tried to gain a foothold. And on this particular stretch of coast, nobody did. It is uninhabitable. The rocks, the lack of soil, the way the vegetation grows. Their density and their lack of anchorage to the rock beneath mean trees eventually grow too big to hold on and fall to the waters below taking other trees with them. In this rain-forest environment, the whole fecund process starts all over again – first moss, then smaller plants and so on. This is raw country where the weather and the waters are unpredictable – hidden rocks, variable currents. Up-to-the-minute technology or not, it takes an experienced seaman to navigate here.

We have one, in this shortish, slightly over-weight – (I notice the cake and the coffee brought up from the galley!), genial man. He doesn’t stop talking. Here is someone who really enjoys this place and his work in it and wants everyone else to enjoy it too. He talks of the marine life, the terrain, the history. He talks about this boat and previous boats and adventures that occurred. He talks to his passengers but he also takes time to run through a crew-member’s questions about an upcoming exam. They go through the various readouts on the screens and worry over minute discrepancies. He acknowledges, with slight irony, that now everything is monitored, the minutest changes are noted and worried over whereas before nobody would have noticed unless there was an obvious, major problem.

I am sure he has a wife, a car and a lawn-mower at home and knows other sides of life,  and maybe, just like the rest of us, he isn’t the perfect paragon of virtue, but here he is in charge. He has accepted responsibility for his passengers, his crew and his boat. He steps up to the mark every day. There is art as well as science to his work. He shares his enjoyment. I admire the guy. Good on him.

 

A brief story about a letter

How I wish I hadn’t opened this. I can’t help myself.

‘. . . the deepest sympathy on the loss of your husband . . .’

Now I’m going to have to tell her.

‘. . . death from concussion came instantaneously . . .’

She can see me through the window. She sees my approaching tears. I see the look in her eyes.

‘We miss him very much. He was a good soldier . . .’

She is at the door, one hand over her mouth.

‘War is a hard game and we do not know from one day to another who is next. It is hard for those left at home, but ‘greater love has no man but this that . . .’

Softly, “Mum . . . It’s Dad . . .”