The Ketch Ceres

In a previous post on For love of a boat, I said that I am happy to post the image of a boat and let it speak for itself.

The vessels themselves are inherently beautiful for many reasons and it’s up to the viewer what they make of what they see.

But what of those ships and boats that predate photography? (The very first photograph? 1825).

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I have written posts on the Ceres before – among others here, here and here.

She was built in 1811 in Salcombe and went down off Baggy Point, Barnstaple Bay in 1936.

There are many black and white photographs from the 1920s and 30s but none I know of from before.

So I am delighted that John Franklin has taken me out of my photography/images mode and reintroduced me to C.Fox Smith’s poem.

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John writes, “I have been mindful of this poem for more than 20 years now and it never fails to move me.”

“Ceres came to mind as I lay in a bed in Barnstaple Hospital where my ‘Bones’ were being repaired about three years ago. I knew she lay out there somewhere in Barnstaple Bay. In sight of Appledore.”

“I often quote from the poem; ‘… a time it comes to ships and men …’ when I’m feeling philosophical.”

In Barnstaple Hospital, John would have been within 10 nautical miles of where she lies.

Speaking as a grandson of Captain Petherick, I know my mother, grandfather and great grandfather would have appreciated your thoughts. Thank you, John.

(Oh, and I can’t resist another photograph).

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Waiting for the tide – Bude, Cornwall

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The Ketch Ceres

A century and a quarter full of change and change had passed
Since they built her down in Devon, where they mostly built to last,
And sent her out to earn her keep, at risk of wave and war,
And dodge the nimble privateer along the Biscay shore.

And war went out, and peace came in, and time it went and came,
And brought new changes every year, but to her it brought the same
The privateers they vanished, and the Indiamen likewise,
And the first steam kettle trailed her smoke across the affronted skies,

The tea fleet and the wool fleet, in their turn they had their day,
She marked them in their beauty as she plied upon her way,
Their canvas piled like summer clouds… like summer clouds they passed,
But she was built in Devon – and they build ‘em there to last.

She loaded nuts and oranges, she carried coal and props,
And bricks and hay and china clay and barley-malt and hops,
She traded north to Derry and she traded south to Spain,
And east about to Wells and Lynn and back to Bude again.

She knew the rips and overfalls from London to the Lizard,
And once she nearly left her bones off Padstow in a blizzard,
And when winter fogs were thickest she mostly smelt her way
By the old familiar sea marks into Bude and Watchet Bay.

And peace went out and war came in, and forth she went once more,
To dodge the nimble submarines along the English shore,
And war went out and peace came in, and still she held together,
Spite of floating mine and tinfish and the good old English weather,

She loaded salt and timber, and she carried slate from Wales.
Cement and corn and cattle cake and paying stones and nails
She worked her way to Liverpool and down the coast for cloam,
Across the way to Swansea Bay and then with slag for home.

But a time it comes to ships and men, when sailing days are past,
Even such as hail from Devon, where they mostly build to last.
And her seams began to open and the Severn tide came through,
And the water kept on gaining spite of all they could do,

They did their best to beach her, but they couldn’t do no more,
And foundered at the finish in site of Appledore,
And her bones’ll never flicker blue on any longshore fire,
For she’ll lie there and she’ll moulder as any old ship might desire,
And hear the vessels passing by, and dream about the past,
And the great old times in Devon, where they built her once to last.

C.Fox Smith. “Blue Peter” February 1937

For love of a boat – in Roussillon, France



Banyuls-sur-mer
, Languedoc-Roussillon, France 2008

This series is based on contemporary images of boats that take my eye.

This usually means they have, or have inherited, a character that makes them stand out from the ‘usual and customary’. This character usually comes from the work they were built for.

Where they are still providing their owners with a living, these working boats are predominantly local fishing boats, but, nowdays, those that are still working often represent the end of the line.

Across Europe, local fisherman are taking to technology and wooden working boats are evolving into leisure boats – or being destroyed.

In most cases, I am happy to leave the images to speak for themselves, but in some areas there is evidence that there is a concerted effort to bridge the gap between the past and the future so that the boats are not just a source of nostalgia but have a role in the present and the future

Such is the case with the boats above, examples of which are found in all the ports along this coast.

These are barques catalanes a voile latine.

I highly recommend the beautifully presented website above. It is in French – (Google have a free translation service but it tends to be word for word and the translation itself needs deciphering). It is worth persevering.

Click on ‘Le coin des enfants’ for the local childrens’ view – (click on the cards at the bottom of that page too- and don’t underestimate how rarely you will witness such endeavours).

More darkly, go to ‘Photos d’autrefois’ (old photos). Half way down the page are pictures of the ancestors of these boats being burnt on the beaches. These tie in with an earlier post on fishing boats at the other end of the Mediterranean – here

Now look at the images again – look at the rake of the masts, the length of the spars. the absence of rigging, the colours. Wonder what it is like to sail in them (and find out on the website).

This is the Cote Vermeille, where Matisse and Derain (Fauvism) among others were inspired by the light and a century ago were painting these boats on the beaches.

For the origin of this series – here

On sailing a Folksong

At the top of this blog is a subtitle which says ‘”Blue Mistress” our Folksong 26’. The blog was started with the intention of seeking out other Folksongs and learning more about the boat.

However, in the past year, I have only occasionally written about Blue Mistress and I think it is time to get a series together for other Folksong owners and anyone else who is interested.

Blue Mistress – January 2008

Firstly, the honeymoon was over for me in the spring. Blue Mistress was no longer ‘new’ to me. A couple of major refits had been completed and I had become familiar with the boat. I could go aboard and know that she would be dry below despite the heavy rains we were having. In a sea, I could trust the engine box not to come apart. I have solved some basic stowage problems, and so on.

People are very complimentary about her appearance. Being complimentary about a boat will always flatter the owner and I’m no exception. I would like to say that I carried out all the work, but it’s not true. I’d like to say I spend more time sailing than I do, but I don’t spend enough time, I have to earn a living.

However, from being a very naive owner of a boat, I am now slightly less so and ready to talk seriously about the ups and downs of sailing this boat. When they are ready, I hope other owners will join in. I am not a committee person or a ‘lets all do this together’ person. I value my independence. But neither am I so dumb that I can’t see that two, three or more brains bent to a problems can be very useful.

Plymouth – early Friday evening

In my teens, I dreamed of sailing all day and arriving in the early evening in some isolated cove, with a sandy beach, palm trees, a freshwater spring – and all the other things teenage boys dream of.

Well, these days, reality is slightly different but no less interesting.

On Friday, I sailed out of and arrived back in Plymouth – the sun shone, the wind blew hard enough, there were few boats around, Blue Mistress flew along – a fantastic sail. I didn’t arrive back to palm trees waving in the breeze but to a view that countless seamen have had reason to appreciate.

I took these in quick succession.

Before me was the Royal Citadel, with the Royal Plymouth Corinthian Yacht Club in the foreground.

Over there was Plymouth Hoe, where Sir Francis Drake was given news of the Spanish Armada – the lighthouse is Smeatons Tower brought ashore and rebuilt when it was replaced with the new Eddystone Lighthouse, ten miles offshore.

And, to starboard, was Mount Batten. My course lay in this direction.

The aim of this post is not to act as a tourist guide to Plymouth (although I’m happy to do so), but to note the excitement of coming to a mooring in the evening through waters that generation upon generation have used before – and generations will continue to use.

We must keep it right for them.

For love of a boat – in Roussillon, France

Port Vendres, Roussillon, France 2008

AA suggested that the boat in my last post looked clean and little used.

So I present this one – moored a few kilometers along the coast.

We spent a week or so on the Cote Vermeille and I have a folder of images of local boats (especially les Barques Catalan – of which more later).

This was one of my favourites. It may not have the most elegant lines or the most colourful finish, and might need a refit soon, but here is a boat that’s doing what it was designed to do.

Is it better to work a boat, or leave it on the beach for we tourists to look at?

I think Port Vendres is a wonderful place for the same reason, because it’s still doing what it grew up doing.

For the origin of this series – here